Fertilizer:
Most lawns don’t need fertilizer now, especially if you applied
fertilizer earlier. But this is a good time to apply a half rate (.5
lb. N/1,000 square feet) of natural organic products or other
slow-release fertilizer with low burn potential. If good growing
conditions persist into midsummer, this little boost will help the
turf compete with crabgrass. On poor soils, the organic matter in
natural organic products can help build soil health.
Mowing:
Continue to follow the “One-Third Rule,” never removing more than
one-third of the plant. (If you set your mower to mow at 3 inches, mow
before the grass reaches 4.5 inches tall.)
As grass growth slows in summer, the time between mowing may increase
to two weeks or more, depending on temperatures and rainfall.
Prepare your lawn for more moisture stress by mowing high (at least 3
inches) to encourage strong root systems. This will also help the
grass compete with weeds.
If you follow the “One-Third Rule,” you can leave the clippings on the
lawn. They won’t contribute to thatch, and they’ll reduce fertilizer
needs.
Sharpen your mower blade to reduce water loss from plants after
mowing. Also avoid mowing during the hottest part of the day.
When grass growth slows to a crawl or stops due to drought, stop
mowing. Resume when rain and cooler weather bring the grass back to
life.
Watering
July and August usually are the only months that lawns in New York
might need watering.
Healthy growing lawn needs about 1 inch of water per week. Use a rain
gauge or coffee can to measure how much you receive. If it’s less than
an inch, you can water to make up the difference.
With established lawns, you can skip watering and let the grass go
dormant in midsummer.
If you choose to water, do it early in the morning to reduce
evaporation losses and ensure that plants dry by mid-morning. (Wet
leaves can lead to disease.)
Use tuna cans or other small containers to check the uniformity of
your sprinkler system.
It is better to water stressed areas by hand rather than to over-water
the whole lawn.
Taper off watering in fall to harden off grass for winter.
Insects
Late July through September is a good time to scout for grubs to see
if there are enough to justify treatment. Treating for grubs in spring
as they near maturity is often not effective. Pesticide applications,
if needed, should happen while the grubs are still young and
vulnerable. August is usually best. Shaded Kentucky bluegrass lawns
established more than 15 years ago are most susceptible to grub
damage. |